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In this soap making video I share my favorite cold process soap recipe right now. This soap is palm free and vegan, and in my humble opinion, the best handmade soap recipe😎
I often make this soap with a few variations. This time, I tried it with grapeseed oil and I really liked the end result. I also experimented with alkanet root infused olive oil to try to achieve a natural purple color. It worked out okay, but I think I could’ve used a bit more alkanet for a more intense color.
Do you want to learn how to formulate your own favorite soap recipe? Check out the soap formulator’s workbook here: https://www.tellervo.fi/shop/p/the-soap-formulators-workbook
Thank you for watching! Please wear proper safety equipment when making soap.
My favorite cold process soap recipe:
Recipe calculated with: https://soapee.com/calculator
Oils:
192 g alkanet root infused olive oil (32%)
42 g castor oil (7%)
36 g grapeseed oil (6%)
168 g coconut oil (28%)
90 g shea butter (15%)
72 g cocoa butter (12%)
Lye solution:
125 g distilled water
10 g citric acid
89.8 g sodium hydroxide (83.8 g if not using citric acid)
(40% lye concentration, 5% superfat)
Additives:
45 g coconut cream
10 ml fragrance oil for a light scent
Cure the soap for 4-6 weeks before using it on your skin.
○ Citric acid information
When citric acid and sodium hydroxide lye (NaOH) are combined, sodium citrate is created. Sodium citrate works as a chelator in soap.
A chelator traps metal ions such as calcium and magnesium that can be found in tap water.
These metal contaminants can cause rancidity and soap scum in handmade soap.
A chelator binds to these metals so that they can’t bind to the soap molecules. This way the soap won’t react with them and the soap’s lather improves + shelf life increases.
Citric acid does not lower the pH of soap. Instead it consumes some of the lye and increases the superfat. Add 6 g extra lye for every 10 g of citric acid added to a soap recipe if you want to keep the superfat % at the same level.
How much citric acid should be added to soap?
Usage rate in bar soap is 1-2% of the oil weight.
How to use citric acid
Add citric acid to the distilled water and dissolve completely before adding the lye, or make a separate solution of citric acid and distilled water and add to the oils.
Soap making equipment*
○ Safety glasses – https://amzn.to/3pP99gz
○ Gloves – https://amzn.to/3gjEViA
○ Braun multiquick stick blender (black colored version) – https://amzn.to/35h3GFO
○ Infrared thermometer – https://amzn.to/3fXLx6e
○ Digital scale – https://amzn.to/3zmJSOR
○ High precision scale – https://amzn.to/39YRc8t
○ Spatulas – https://amzn.to/3zo8DdB
○ Glass bowl – https://amzn.to/3Cvglnw
○ Funnel pitchers for easy pouring – https://amzn.to/3aYb9h1
○ Stainless steel pitcher – https://amzn.to/3nNQOzU
○ Silicone molds:
○ Single cavity mold – https://amzn.to/3cAEIW0
○ Silicone loaf mold – https://amzn.to/35gS05S
○ Small wooden soap mold with silicone lining – https://amzn.to/3pVdn6b
○ Cafe de savon wire cutter – https://item.rakuten.co.jp/cafe-de-savon/f3090601/
○ Guide – https://item.rakuten.co.jp/cafe-de-savon/f3081202/
○ Swiss star stainless steel vegetable peeler for beveling soaps – https://amzn.to/3ak4VHW
○ Mini mixer – https://amzn.to/35dvECc
Recommended reading:
○ https://amzn.to/3iIllh5
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